How To Install Kitchen Cabinets

The installation of kitchen cabinets might appear like a difficult job, but it is actually fairly easy. It’s all about fixing cabinets to your wall in the correct order and making sure that all surfaces are in a level position.

If you decide to do this work yourself, it could save you cost on installation. However, it’ll require the assistance of a second person and a cabinet jack in order to move and place cabinet doors. Be aware that kitchen cabinets must be installed prior to the flooring being put in because the movement of the cabinets and then joining them together could result in scratches or even cracks in the flooring. This article will help you with how to install kitchen cabinets.

How To Install Kitchen Cabinets

If you’re ready for the start of the work, here are the steps you need to follow.

Make the Space

• Utilizing a 4-foot level and a framing square, examine the corners and walls of the kitchen area to make sure they’re level, square, and straight.
• Take note of any bubbles, dips, or angles that could require scribe-fitting, shimming or modifications to the wall.
• Install the electrical wiring for the range, dishwasher refrigerator, garbage disposal, and vent hood prior to placing on the cupboards.
• Place receptacles over the countertop backsplash every four feet, as well as anywhere you intend to make use of a portable appliance.
• Arrange cabinet lighting fixtures and wall-mounted switches along with the drain and supply lines.
• Check that the cap isn’t glued onto the drainpipe.

Note The Reference Line

• By using a level, you can mark an appropriate level reference to the wall around 48 inches above the floor.
• Make a chalk line on these points, and then take measurements from this line down towards the flooring in various spots.
• The line indicating where the measurement is the shortest should be a high spot on the ground.
• Just below the mark that marks the highest point, you should note the high point of your base cabinets, which is typically 34 inches higher than the floor.
• From there, you can extend a line of level layout along the walls. On the top, the cabinets the bottom will be in line with the layout line.
• Measure 17-18 inches higher than the bottom cabinet layout line and draw an even chalk line to the lower edge of the cabinets.
• Use the studs to their location on the layout lines. Make a small hole near each marker to verify the location of the studs.
• Find the exact locations of all appliances.

Merge the Upper Cabinets

• Take out the drawers, doors, and shelves from the upper cabinets in order to make them more compact and easy to place.
• Label everything using masking tape so that every piece can be placed back in the correct way.
• Set a straight 1×3-cleat in front of and just below the layout line of the cabinet. Install drywall screws of 2 inches through it and then into every other stud. Install more cleats on each length.
• When the cabinets are on the floor, you can align the frame of the upper corner cabinet so that it’s flush with that of the cabinet next to it and then secure them.
• Make sure the face frame is flush using a straightedge. Drill counterbored pilot holes along the edges of the face frame, both at the top and the bottom.
• Install 2-inch screws in these holes to unite the cabinets together.

Suspend the upper Cabinets

• With the help of a second individual or jack, raise the cabinet into the corner and place it on the clamp.
• Examine the cabinet’s face using a level to confirm that it is level. If it’s not, you can drive four 2 1/2-inch deck screws (with washers) through the back of the cabinet, along the top and bottom, and then into the studs. If the cabinet isn’t plumb, then slide shims in between the cabinet’s back and wall in the locations of the studs. (To remove the bottom shims and top, take out from the bottom the screw.)
• If the cabinet is plumb, then fix it by screwing it through the shims and screwing it to the bolts.
• Move the cabinets on the cleat, place their sides with the ones that are already in place, then fix the edges of the cabinets together.
• Adjust cabinets as required, after which they are secured to the studs using the shims using 2 1/2-inch deck screws as well as washers.
• Cover any gaps that exist between the wall or cabinet by drawing a line across its back edge or stile or by trimming the gap.

Installation of the Corner Base Cabinet

• The corner cabinet should be moved into its position. Then, move it up off the ground until its back edge is in line with the line of layout.
• If you see plumbing lines, press the cabinet shimmed into them, and then mark their positions on the back panel.
• Turn the cabinet over and drill holes into the back using a suitable hole saw.
• With a level, examine the cabinet’s face to see if it’s in a straight line. If it’s not, put shanks in between the floors and lower part of the cabinet as well as between the walls and the cabinet’s back in the locations of the studs.
• Verify that your cabinet’s top is even. Put in shims as needed. While the cabinet is resting against its shims, drive 2 1/2-inch deck screws through the cabinet backward and through the studs. In the locations where the shims are, you can counterbore and attach your cabinet onto the flooring using deck screws.

Install the remaining cabinets

• Starting from the corner cabinet, move the cabinets adjacent to it away from the wall in the places of the studs and upwards from the floor so that the frames on the fronts are level as well as the cabinets’ tops level and aligned with the design line.
• Make sure that each cabinet’s face is in line with its neighbour. Connect them, counterbore across the edges of the frame faces and then secure them with screws of 2 inches.
• When you reach the shims, push your deck screws (with washers) through the cabinet, then back to the studs.
• Make sure that there is no gap in between wall space and cabinet by drawing a line across it with its style, or on edge on the back of the side panels, or covering the gap using trimming.
• Utilizing a knife for cutting, make a score and then cut off any shims or shims which extend beyond the edges of the cabinets.
• Take off all support for the upper cabinet screws and fill in the holes in the screws with a spackle.
• Replace the shelves and drawers in the cabinets they came from.

Add the Toekick and Doors

• Replace the doors of the cabinet. If you have overlay doors that cover the cabinet frame, make sure the hinges are adjusted to ensure that the doors are straight. For doors that are inset, adjust the hinges until the door is level with the frame of the face and even reveals (gap) around the edges.
• Utilizing 1-inch brads, attach the toe-kick trim onto your base cabinet.
• The longest pieces should be installed first and then cut and put in smaller pieces. Cover any gaps between the trim and floor by scribing. You can also cover them with brad-nailing a shoestring to the floor.
• Make sure to remove the nail heads using nail sets and then place them over with wood putty or a color-matched stick of wax.
• If there’s a crown molding that you want to cut out in the cabinets above, trim the joints on the outside corners, and then cope the joints on the inside corners.
• The molding’s bottom edge should be aligned with the straight layout line that is marked over the doors’ tops.
• Attach your molding onto the cabinet using 1-to-2-inch finish nails. The molding’s ends should be glued.
• Remove the nailheads using a nail set. Cover them with wood putty or a color-matched wax stick.